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WHAT we’re doing, and HOW we’re doing it!
June 27, 2022
One of the very first Triumph reference books I purchased
(almost 30 years ago) was Richard Newton’s Illustrated
Triumph Buyer’s Guide, Motorbooks International 1994.
While the Triumph values are now well out of date, it’s still a
good reference for following the evolution of the TR series
from TR2-TR6. The one comment that I have always
remembered from reading this book is that the IRS cars
(TR4A-TR6) have a lot of additional parts which need to be
maintained. He sure called that one right! This photo
shows one disassembled IRS axle shaft assembly (AKA
half-shaft), and one that has received a complete overhaul
with new U-joints and bearings. We rebuild these here in-
house, and it’s quite a lengthy and complicated task. All
new replacement parts can be purchased for about the
same cost as overhauling an original, but you still must
assemble the components and the new outer hub
assemblies will usually need to be taken apart and re-
assembled correctly. All that effort and lower quality parts
probably explains why we have so many owners of IRS
equipped cars just send their original axles here for a
complete rebuild.
June 20, 2022
Don’t try this at home! The rear body tub of a sidescreen
TR is a complicated affair, made up from multiple different
panels that all have to fit together perfectly. It’s the first
area that I look at when contemplating the purchase of a
TR2-TR3B because it is the absolute hardest area to repair
and a common place to find rust and collision damage.
From the windshield inspection stickers it appears that this
car originated in CA, and then spent time in OK before
making it to Ohio, so the rust wasn’t much of an issue. But
typical of most Triumphs that aren’t rusty, it had suffered
some “minor” collision damage. The first indication was a
little crinkle at the edge of the spare tire opening which
should have been easy enough to repair, but when dealing
with a 60+ year old car, nothing is ever as easy as it seems.
Each and every panel attached to the spare tire pan and
rear apron had been deformed by this relatively minor
looking collision, so just as we revealed here in our May 16
post, the only way to straighten out the mess was to take it
all apart and repair each piece individually. Fortunately, we
have created three precision body jigs, and we’ve done this
job many many times in the past, so the results will be
invisible and perfect.
June 13, 2022
Having travelled extensively in a TR3 over the past 25+
years, I can tell you from experience that the Occasional
Rear Seat (ORS) is a welcome addition to any pre-TS60K
TR with the scalloped and sloping rear floor. It’s true that
no one can sit back there, but without the seat to provide a
flat horizontal surface, you also won’t be able to transport
much in that area either. Anything moderately sized is
difficult to carry in this area, as it won’t fit down into the
scallops, and if placed higher up on the sloping area they
tend to slide down and rub on the back of the seats.
Adding the Occasional Rear Seat flattens out the surface,
allowing medium sized objects to be carried easily, while
still leaving the small scalloped floor areas under the ORS
for packing smaller items. The TR2’s had a larger 14 gallon
gas tank which further reduces the size of this area, so an
ORS is probably not going to be an option for you. But
when Triumph thought to start selling rear seats as an
option at the introduction of the TR3 in 1956, the size of the
gas tank was reduced to 12.5 gallons, adding space for the
rear seat “passengers” and baggage.
June 6, 2022
This week’s photo is yet another example of the electrical
atrocities by previous owners and mechanics which have
given rise to the horrible Lucas Electric reputation. Time
and time again we’ve shown examples here of why the
“Prince of Darkness” and “Brits drink warm beer because
they have Lucas refrigerators” tales are not really the fault
of the Joseph Lucas company or it’s products. The
troublesome myths stem from ham fisted owners and
mechanics who think it’s OK to splice 4 short pieces of wire
together like this to make a 14” piece, and then connect
some of the sections by simply twisting the wires together
and wrapping with tape. Follow a color code so that
someone later can trace the faults it’s sure to have? Forget
about it. We don’t need no stinking color code! Oh, and
did I mention the short splice in the ground wire? Two
inches off the light socket seems to me like a good place to
add another splice. Gotta use up that new roll of electrical
tape somehow! We receive inquiries all the time from
prospective TR owners who are contemplating their first
British car, and just about every one of them ask if they can
“upgrade” the troublesome Lucas electrical system. Of
course we tell them right away that we always replace the
old hacked-up wiring like this with a new OEM Lucas style
harness, and the troubles are over until the owners or some
local mechanic feel the need to start cutting into it again to
add some new gee-whiz accessory. At that time, I’m afraid,
the legend will return!
May 31, 2022
This is what the rear of a TR6 body tub looks like, flipped
upside-down of course. But they don’t all look like this one,
as the bottom of the spare tire pan is originally made in one
piece. What evidently happened to this 1972 TR6 many
years ago, was that someone hit this car in the rear end,
and the body shop doing the repairs was “lucky” enough to
find an entire rear 18” from another TR6 and graft it onto
the damaged car. The workmanship is pretty poor, and the
overlapped areas created a nice pocket to trap moisture
and promote rust. They did however slather enough
undercoating on it that the present owner, who acquired the
car sometime around 1976, had no idea that the car had
ever been wrecked and repaired in this manner. This is
why every car we are going to restore and paint has to
make a trip through the stripping tanks at Pro Strip Indy, so
we can find all the previous sins and repair them correctly.
And in the case of this TR6, the story does not end here at
the tail end. When the car was hit from behind, it looks like
it was pushed into the car ahead, because the front end of
the body tub has been repaired in exactly the same
manner, also unknown to the present long-term owner! At
least the body shop way back was lucky enough to find
both rear AND front sections to make the “repairs”.
May 23, 2022
One week ago, May 15, we took Tonda’s 1961 TR4
(CT288L) to the Columbus Ohio British Car Day, where it
once again won the coveted Best of Show award. That
now makes 4 British car shows and 4 Best of Show awards
for this car! But this week’s Blog is about the questions we
continually get about this perfect 100 point car being 1) a
1961(?) TR4, and 2) why wide whitewall tires? The first
question is the easiest to answer, as minimal research will
show that Triumph built 2470 TR4 models in 1961, starting
in August. As for the wide whitewalls, they were the
worldwide norm up through 1961, and then the entire globe
switched over to narrow 3/4” whitewalls in early 1962. This
publicity photograph clearly shows two early (1961) TR4’s
with wide whitewalls, and we also have a collection of early
TR4 brochures and magazine ads which show cars with
wide whites instead of the later narrow style. But the most
convincing evidence that wide whites were factory installed,
and not provided by the American dealers, is a factory
photo on page 64 of Piggott’s “Triumph - The Sporting
Cars” (2000), showing cars with wide whites on the
assembly line Oct. 2, 1961. As Tonda’s CT288L was
completed on Oct. 5, and “whitewall tyres” are listed on the
Heritage Certificate, we had no choice than to install wide
whites for a proper and authentic restoration.
May 16, 2022
Crumpled sheet metal can usually be straightened with
relative ease, as long as there aren’t any “hard” breaks
(folds) or multiple pieces welded to each other which tend
to lock-in the damage. In the case of multiple piece panels,
they are easier to straighten if you first separate the pieces
and straighten the components one at a time. Take this
early TR2 inner front fender for example. This is from
TS333L, and on the earliest cars like this Triumph created
these panels from many smaller pieces. Later in
production they could afford large stamping dies, so the
inner fenders were made in one giant piece. Most
sidescreen cars have been bashed in the front end at least
once by now, so years ago we built bucks so we could
create new fender wells from scratch. But in the case of
this early car, where the panel was made from so many
smaller pieces, we opted to cut everything apart at the
seams and straighten all of the parts one by one. We then
used the buck to reassemble the fender well in precisely
the same manner as the Triumph factory did back in 1953.
Making the repair in this way let us retain a larger portion of
the original car, and fix the problem at a lower cost than to
fabricate a completely new one.
May 9, 2022
Attention to detail isn’t just about getting the visible parts of
the car right, but applies to each and every hidden
component as well. Take the lower battery box and under
dash area of this TR3B for example. The heater has the
correct black wrinkle finish on the lower plate and doors,
and the doors both have bright new ivory colored plastic
knobs. The aluminum elbow for the defrost hose
connection is the proper silver, and the screw holding the
elbow to the heater is the correct natural finish. The
overdrive solenoid is mounted in the correct location at the
rear of the battery box, with the proper spade wire
connectors installed in the correct “down” orientation. The
solenoid is attached with the original style hex nuts and
slotted flat head screws that were countersunk into the
battery box, necessary to keep the screw heads from
wearing holes in the battery case. Don’t forget to install the
battery box drain tube either! Also note the detail in routing
the water temp gauge capillary tube as shown in the
Standard-Triumph TR2 Service Instruction Manual (Section
C, Cooling System, page 4). Not shown here, but the
additional details to route the capillary tube through the
engine bay as shown in Service Bulletin Sports/2/C,
October 1954 were also followed. All of these details don’t
need to be memorized, but it sure helps to know that
references are available, and where to find them!
May 2, 2022
Most of the TR’s that arrive here for full restoration have
been sitting in storage for a very long time, but rarely are
we able to determine exactly why the cars were taken off
the road and parked in the first place. The crack in the
bottom of this TR3A gearbox case leaves little doubt as to
why this particular car stopped providing fun transportation
to it’s owner, though we still have to wonder why they didn’t
look for a replacement transmission to get it back on the
road? At the time this car was parked in the mid-1970’s,
there were foreign car service shops and junk/salvage
yards where parts and service were available, so a $25
used transmission and an afternoon’s work could have put
this TR3A back into service. We’ve never seen a gearbox
broken this severely before, nor have we heard one make
the same noises inside when you roll it over on the bench.
We’ll tear it down to see what happened, but we don’t
expect to find many re-usable parts inside. The solution
here will undoubtedly be to start with another gearbox from
our 9000 sq ft warehouse, and upgrade to a 4-synchro TR4
box with overdrive while we’re at it!
April 25, 2022
Over the many years that have elapsed since our beloved
Triumphs were new cars, they’ve all taken a lot of abuse
from previous owners and body men alike. Seemingly all
cars and body panels have been beaten and wrinkled at
some point in time, and with most cars this has happened
to them multiple times throughout the years. It’s gotten to
the point where original shapes have been lost to the
previous 5-7 decades, and most cars are “restored” back to
the “best guess” as to how they should really be shaped.
Because we repair and restore the TR2-TR6 model range
EXCLUSIVELY, we’ve seen and worked on more TR’s than
anyone else on this side of the Atlantic. It also means that
through this high volume, we occasionally find that rare
body panel that has escaped the usual abuse. We then
make a durable template and keep those templates here
for use on every car which follows through our shop. In this
photo you can see our lower rear fender (wing) template
being used to confirm that our metal repairs to this
crumpled rear corner have returned it to the correct original
profile.
April 18, 2022
We recently rebuilt a TR250 engine and the owner wanted
to participate, so he “rebuilt” the carburetors himself at
home. When it came time for us to mount the engine onto
our test stand and run it for the proper camshaft break-in
procedure (and to check for leaks and general operation),
the owner delivered the freshly rebuilt carburetors for us to
install and use during the test. We always pump up the oil
pressure and fuel before hitting the starter, but as the fuel
began to enter the carbs, they started to drip almost
instantly. This new found problem meant that the test run
was delayed while we removed and disassembled the
carburetors to find the source of the leaks. Once the lower
fuel bowls were removed, the source of the leaks was
readily apparent. A portion of the old gasket still remained
on the edge of the fuel bowl, and expecting the new gasket
to seal around this was asking a bit much. So the lesson to
be learned here is that whenever replacing ANY gasket on
your car, motorcycle, or even your lawnmower, make sure
that the gasket surfaces on your parts are absolutely clean
and smooth. Otherwise, you may end up with a larger leak
than the one you intended to fix!
April 11, 2022
When examining transmission gears, it is the large teeth
that usually get all the attention. They are the teeth which
transfer all of the engine power, but they suffer little wear or
abuse as they are always in constant mesh with the
countershaft gears and are never supposed to move out of
position. What is actually the most important feature of
these gears are the smaller teeth, seen only on the gear at
the left in this photo. Look closely at the gear on the right,
and you can see where the small teeth were once attached,
but all have now been stripped away clean. These small
teeth are the place where the transmission synchronizers
continually slide on and off to connect and disconnect the
gear on every up-shift and down-shift. If worn enough by
this action, they can cause your transmission to pop out of
gear on a downshift or during deceleration. They are also
the teeth that you hear when someone grinds the gears!
April 4, 2022
Here’s a new one that we’ve never seen before! This TR4A
had two driving lights installed in the front fenders, one on
each side of the car. It might have been understandable if
they had been pointed outside of the fenderwell so that
they could have been used as turning lamps to illuminate
the pavement around a corner. But no, they weren’t aimed
at anything except the tire tread, or the brake calipers when
the wheels were removed. Perhaps a previous owner was
having a large amount of brake problems, and found
himself always working on it in the middle of the night? Or
could they have possibly raced this car at Sebring or
Daytona where brake service might have been required
after dark in the 12 and 24 hour races? We’ll never know
for certain why these lights were mounted here, but one
thing for sure is that we now have another one to add to our
“What Were They Thinking?” files.
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